I had seen unbelievable photos of magical arctic islands pop up on my Instagram feed a while ago, and having an early March trip in mind, I immediately started my research to see how accessible this bewitching-looking location was. Having always had the Northern Lights on my bucket list, I decided I wanted to merge this newfound arctic island obsession with a chance to see the Aurora Borealis. Lofoten, being in the Artic Circle, seemed to be the perfect place to make this happen. So, we booked this epic trip for early March of 2025…
Lofoten is made up of about 80 islands, each with little villages, and each as beautiful as the next. The island villages are set against the towering mountains that seem to jut straight up from the sea. It took a bit to get there, but it is most definitely one of the most stunning and jawdropping destinations that Cisco and I have ever visited. Especially in the winter!!
Getting There:
There are several ways to get to Lofoten, and we had considered all of them: Doing a 9-10 hour road trip from Tromso, flying into the towns of Svolvaer or Leknes, or taking a ferry from Mainland Norway. We knew that we wanted to be based in southern Lofoten, near the most picturesque villages with the famous red & yellow Rorbuer (the old fishing houses that have become synonmous with Lofoten). And we knew we definitely needed a rental car in Lofoten, to be able to explore the islands with freedom, in our own time. After researching where to rent a car in Lofoten, we realized there were not many available cars once there, so we decided to rent a car in Bodo (plenty available), and take the car on the ferry from Bodo to Moskenes, which is a perfect entry point in Southern Lofoten- very close to where we were staying. You can book the ferry here. Make sure you book it well in advance. And select the option for a vehicle.
Where to stay:
Many people choose to stay in Reine or Hamnoy, amongst the picturesque red Rorbuers. And while there are many lovely options there, we chose to stay on the small island of SakrisĆøy, which is famous for its yellow Rorbuer. We decided this because Sakrisoy is pefectly situated in the middle of Southern Lofoten, directly between Reine & Hamnoy, and it is unbelievably picturesque, with stunning views all around it. We also chose this because of the specific accommodations. I booked us the absolute coziest room with a balcony on the top floor of the SakrisĆøy Manor Guesthouse. It was called the Olstind Mountain Suite, and it was amazing. It was comfortable, very spacious, and we woke up to the most insane view every morning through the huge French doors and balcony. We even got to see the northern lights from our balcony on the first night we arrived…
Incredible views from this little white guesthouse!
Sakrisoy was the one island in Lofoten that had all yellow Rorbruer, instead of the more typical red that you find in the other towns of Ć , Reine, and Hamnoy. It’s incredibly beautiful and also the island that hosts the rather famous restaurant called Anita’s Seafood. The are most known for their cool cod chandeliers and fresh, delicious fish sandwiches, which were great.
But another thing that is great there, are the photo opportunities! Right adjacent to Anita’s, is the single A-frame yellow house, whose roof perfectly mimics the peak behind it. At any given time, you may notice people stopping to take photos there.
We actually arrived on Lofoten at around 7:00pm from the ferry, and after checking in to our room and getting changed, we looked to see what nearby restaurant might be open. There were only two that were still serving dinner at 8:30pm, so we chose the Italian bistro, Gadus Nordic Trattoria. So glad we did! Their homemade pasta was fantastic!! (We had the mushroom fettuccini and carbonara, and one of their incredible desserts) The staff & food were wonderful, and we loved it so much, we ended up eating here one more night as well.
On our way home, we noticed some people set up with cameras on the famous photo-spot bridge of Hamnoy. We parked before the bridge and walked onto the bridge to see what is probably the most famous view and most photographed landscape in all of Lofoten: the red rorbuers of Hamnoy. And on this night, floating above that famous sight, was an awesome display of the Northern lights!
Day One:
The first full day on Lofoten, we decided to start at the most southern little town, with the littlest name, Ć . It’s only about a 15 minute drive there from Sakrisoy, and we stopped along the way, in Reine, to get a little breakfast at the Bringen Kaffebar, which we came to find, served the best cinnamon buns in Lofoten! Most places only open at 10:00am (and close before 8:00pm), including this one, so plan your meals around this schedule. It’s the cutest little bakery/cafe with gorgeous views and great food. They also had chai lattes, for this non-coffee drinker. š
After our cinnabun fuel, we took our lattes to go, and drove down to Ć . You can rent kayaks there, and there is also a little bakery, but we just spent an hour there taking beautiful photos and walking down the pier. There is also a bakery from 1800, a cod liver oil factory, and the Norwegian Fishing Village Museum (open from 11:00 – 3:00pm), which you can visit.
After leaving Ć , we drove to the little hamlet called Nusfjord, which is about a 45 minute drive, with plenty of amazing photo opps along the way. Nusfjord is one of the most well-preserved original fishing villages in Lofoten, so they actually charge a fee to enter the town (approx $9USD), and this helps them to maintain the village and its integrity.
There are varied activities you can do there, as well as places to stay and eat. We had a great lunch at Landhandelriet CafƩ. It was crowded when we got their (peak lunchtime), but a table opened up after 5 minutes. Their fish soup and bread was awesome. Ad the aesthetics inside and little shop is very charming!
Day Two:
We got an earlier start this morning, in order to head to Henningsvaer, and decided to stop for a breakfast pastry & coffee on the way. Leknes is a town on the way to Henningsvaer, about 45 minutes from our Guesthouse, so we decided to get there by 10:00 for a breakfast snack. We had a coffe, chai & cinamon roll at Huset, and while the cinnamon roll was not quite as great as Bringen Cafe’s, Cisco said it was one of the best coffees he’s ever had.
Once in Henninsgvaer, we had a great lunch at Kafe Knusarn (the fish tacos were awesome!), and then we drove to the tip of the town to see what we had come here to see- arguably the most unique and picturesque location for a soccer field that exists in the whole world…
After droning a bit, and running the field, we headed to our next stop– hot tubs, to warm our bones from the chilly air!! I had researched where to find bookable, private hot tubs in Lofoten, and this place came highly rated, and it was for good reason!! Skarungen is a resort in Orsvagvaer, about a 15-20 minute drive from the soccer field in Henninsvaer. It is a cpmlex of hotel, cabins, campgrounds, restaurant, and the most incredible hot tubs on the water’s edge, with epic views, that can be rented privately for a set period of time. There are two private hot tub areas, and each has a cold-plunge tub, sauna, and changing cabin– everything you could need for an amazing hour! We actually arrived early, and they let us go straight there, and told us we could have the space for the additional earlier time since no one was currently renting it. So we got an hour, 45 minutes for the cost of our hour rental. Score!
And quite frankly, we didn’t want to leave! We didn’t stay to eat there, since we had already had lunch in Henningsvaer, but I heard that their restaurant is awesome! So if you have the time, check it out, and let me know how it was. š
Day Three:
On our last full day here, we decided to spend the day with no real plans, other than driving around and taking photographs, and just casually enjoying the beauty that surrounded us on every side. We knew we wanted to spend some time in Reine and Hamnoy, two of the most picturesque areas, famous for their red rorbuers, and very short drives from our little island of Sakrisoy. We had lunch at Tapperiet Bistro , which is a cozy, casual spot for things like fish & chips, that sports live music on some nights. And we had dinner at Maren Anna, which was recommended to us, and had amazing views and terrific food! But no views could beat those from the road, in every direction……
Until next time, Aloha Lofoten!
Top 10 Things Not to Miss in Lofoten:
- Ć – The tiniest town with the tiniest name, there’s lots to do here, including kayaking, two museums, and the famous bakery!
- SAKRISOY – the little island where we stayed, and the one that’s uniquely covered in all yellow rorbruers! Don’t miss Anita’s Seafood store & restaurant, and the famous yellow house there, that mimics the mountain peak behind it.
- REINE – Home to some of the most stunning panoramic views of the mountains, with the little fishing houses reflected in the bay below. Serious photo spots! Also home to Bringen Kafe, where we got our tasty cinnamon rolls every morning!
- HAMNOY – The most photographed spot in all of Lofoten, is on the bridge leading to Hamnoy- with it’s perfectly positioned red rorbruers dotting the water’s edge with the mountain rising above them. Don’t miss Gadus Tratoria here!!
- NUSFJORD – A stunning and incredibly preserved fishing village, nestled in a hamlet against the sloping mountains. So Instagramable, but also with lots of varied water activities and museum. Entrance fee to visit. Eat at Landhandleriet Cafe.
- HENNINSVAER SOCCER FIELD – the most unique and gorgeous location for a soccer field in the world, maybe?? Especially awesome if you drone it. The town is beautiful too! With Art studios, boutiques, and a great lunch at Knusarn!
- SKARUGEN – near Henningsvaer, and an awesomely-planned little resort with campground, hotel, restaurant, and private areas for sauna, cold plunge, and amazing hot tubs– right along the sea! Come for the warmth, stay for the views.
- BRINGEN KAFE – Fluffy cinnamon rolls!! Enough said. (But they have lots of other great fresh-baked items & specialty coffees). Super cute inside, with fun little items to buy, and the views are pretty epic!
- GADUS TRATORIA – Homemade pasta, cozy interior, and open later than some places. The best meal we had! Make a reservation! Oh, and get the dessert.
- THE NOTHERN LIGHTS – If you are lucky enough to get to see the Aurora Borealis in this magical wonderland, then you are extra lucky!! Check the Aurora tracking apps for probability, and if you’re not sure if what you’re seeing is just a misty cloud or the actual Aurora, here’s a trick– hold your phone up to it, and see if it’s green. That’ll tell you right away!
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