ICELAND

The land of Fire and Ice, and exploding infinites…

Beginning our trek on July 1, 2019, around the entire Land of Fire and Ice for 14 days, had been nothing short of unreal! I knew it would be awesome, but it’s one of of those places that you just need to see, to really feel. And traveling the country in a camper van gives you an incredible freedom where you can create your own agenda as you go, venture off the beaten path, and take your time soaking it all in. And the fact that it’s daylight almost 24 hours here in the summertime, and never gets completely dark, means you can visit spots at midnight, and not have to share the awesome peace, comfort, and views with anyone else! There are dozens of campervan companies, ranging in budget and style, and we chose Campeasy Camper Vans for their competitive prices and good customer service reviews. We converted the interior of our 4-wheeled Iceland home from a living vroom to a bed vroom 😉 on day one, and kept it that way the entire trip, so that we could spend more time enjoying our surroundings and less time making and re-making the bed. And with that, we began our two weeks of discovering some of the most beautiful spots in this varied, gorgeous, surprising country…..

We started our drive along the Southern Coast, and the first stop we came to was one of Iceland’s most famous attractions (and the main photo of this post)- Seljalandsfoss. We got there at about 2:30pm and decide to take a nap in our campervan, because we were tired from the flight and the morning setup/food shopping/driving. When we woke at 5:30pm, most everyone from all the tour buses had already gone, and there were very few people at the falls anymore. This impromptu nap was the best thing we could’ve done, because it set the ‘routine’ for the rest of our days, where we rested and slept during the peak hours of the day, when attractions were the most crowded, and began our sightseeing in the evenings, until past midnight, when the sun was just beginning to color the sky in beautiful sunset hues. And then when the sun would start to come up again at around 2:00am, we would sleep again for some hours and then hit some of the attractions early, before anyone else got there. Then we would get some lunch, and nap again until evening. It was the perfect formula for having secluded venues to ourselves.

Next to Seljalandsfoss, is a smaller, hidden, cavern waterfall, called Gljufrabui, and is a DO NOT MISS on my list of Iceland ‘musts’! Entering through the narrow cavern walls feels like something out of Middle Earth, and you will love the vibe. It’s also far less crowded, as many people do not know it’s there, and they are clammouring to see it’s famous larger sister-falls.

The other ‘Musts’ on the first two days of the Southern Coast, were Skogafoss, and the little hiddern cave waterfall, right near it, called Kvernufoss, another MUST! You have to climb over a sheep gate and walk through a valley to get there, but it is a gorgeous, quick little trek, and the end location is marvelous. We swam at the hidden mountain hot pool, Seljavalalaug, at almost midnight, and hiked about 1.5 hours to the crashed DC-3 plain the next night, around the same time. The bonus was that there were only about 2-4 other people at these otherwise popular sights. It was awesome! We visited Vik, an incredibly picturesque town, and the black sand beach of Reynisfjara, and incredible basalt columns that make you truly appreciate how awesomely wicked Mother Nature is. 

SOUTHEAST ICELAND

On days 3-4, we made our way around the southeastern coast, heading slowly up north, and gobbling up all the incredible sights along the way. The Fjadrargljufur Canyon (Jurassic-looking and not too easy to say), but stunning(!!!), was a great place to fly the drone. The Vatnajokull glacier (the largest in Iceland) was visible all along the road in the South East, right amongst green grassy fields and wildflowers- crazy!! You can book glacier tours, but we didn’t do that this time.  We stopped to see the Jökulsárlón glacier lake, which was amazing with icebergs floating in it, and then down the river run off, into the Atlantic Ocean, where they get washed up on the black sand beach and look like huge diamonds- hence the name, Diamond Beach.  And probably my favorite, and most mind-blowing sight from all that we saw, are still the basalt columns. We found an ‘upside down’ column waterfall, Svartifoss, which was an easy 15 minute hike that starts at the Skaftafell visitor center. And lastly, but most impressively- an unbelievable canyon called Studlagil, made up of basalt columns that create a straight corridor for the unreal aqua-colored glacial river to flow through. I mean……. seriously?!?! You can access the lookout by following the road to the Studlagil Canyon parking area (easy), or you can trek through private property and hop a farm fence, and walk for about 1.5 hours to get to the bottom of the canyon on the other side, up close and personal. We opted for the less intrusive option, and flew the drone down the basalt corridor to get some very close-up shots.

EAST/NORTH ICELAND

On days 5 & 6, we began to head towards the North, on the Eastern side of Iceland, and planned to stop for the night at a little hamlet town called Seydisfjordur. There’s only one way in and out of the town, via a scenic mountain overpass, which we drove over at midnight, when the sun was setting. The town was so beautiful, and the highlight was the most awesome rainbow road that ever was.  As we headed more North, we saw steaming thermal vents at the Hverir ‘boiling mud’ fields, swam in the hot, blue waters of the Myvatn nature pools, and found the cave where Jon Snow and Ygritte had a steamy night of their own (for you Game of Thrones fans). The water was crystal clear & super blue. And super hot!! We also found an aquamarine crater pool in the middle of nowhere, the Krafla Viti Crater, saw the most powerful waterfall in all of Europe (Dettifoss), and drove through the most picturesque fishing villages and landscapes that you can imagine….

WEST FJORDS

Days 7-8. We definitely knew we wanted to venture into the more remote, and less-visited part of Iceland. So we took two days to roam around the western most region, where the puffin-to-human ratio goes to the birds.  We found more secluded hot pools and springs than in our whole trip combined thus far, and spent hours just floating and taking in the epic scenery. The natural geological rock formations were almost like sculptures, and the sunsets that lasted three hours and seamlessly melted into sunrises, lit up the landscapes when we took to the roads in the middle of the night. 

I tried my best to capture Iceland’s natural beauty, because it is so incredibly varied, and the colors, temperature, and overall mood, changes so drastically from one moment and mile, to the next…….

SNÆFELLSNES PENINSULA

On days 9 & 10, we discovered the western peninsula and the Golden Circle. I’m pretty sure I called it Snuffellupagus for the better half of the journey. We spent a few hours walking around the coastal town of Arnarstapi, where we saw some incredible rock arches where seabirds nest, and aqua blue water around the cute little harbor. We saw the famous Kirkjufell mountain and waterfalls, the black church of Budir, and discovered a hidden ‘gully’ crevasse in the cliffs near Arnarstapi that looked like something else from Middle Earth. During the trek around the Golden Circle, we watched geysers spout hundreds of feet in the air, saw the beloved Gulfoss Waterfall,  and of course, Cisco got carried away again over the beautiful landscapes!! …..

 
REYKJAVIK, and the BLUE LAGOON

We traded in our camper van for Prosecco-infused Blue Lagoon glam— 
….. Varying levels of styles.
Nearly 1,800 miles.
Copious amounts of smiles.
Photos by the piles. 

After spending 11 days living out of a van, we wanted to finish our trip with some creature comforts (and a hotel) in Reykjavik. The only thing more indulgent than the incredibly luxurious ‘Retreat Spa’ at the Blue Lagoon, was all the lobster cream soup and Skyr cheesecake I could manage to stuff into my face during our last few days enjoying the capitol city of Iceland. The Blue Lagoon, in my opinion, is a must. Not only because it is iconic, and the one place that is unmistakably synonymous with Iceland, but because it feels awesome! This would be a ‘do-not-miss’ if you are able. And, if you have the budget to splurge a little, I cannot recommend the Retreat Spa enough. It’s about 4 times the price, but it is about 100 times worth it. We forewent other creature comforts in order to splurge on this, and we did not regret it. It is extremely exclusive, with its private changing rooms, luxury take-home products, private pools and hidden lairs. It includes exfoliating treatments and silica masks as part of the ‘spa ritual’, and a complimentary glass of champagne or Prosecco. You get a 4-hour window to enjoy all the amenities, which need to be reserved ahead of time, and they limit the amount of people during each time slot, so it really feels extremely private and special. We went in the morning for the first time slot, 8:00-12:00, and we were pretty much the only ones there, with the exception of two other couples who came later. We then had lunch at the Lava cafe, which was lovely, and included copious amounts of delicious sourdough bread and skyr butter! Icing on the top of an awesome cake-day to begin with!

Reykjavik itself was an awesome town! We loved walking around the cute and colorful little streets. The church is one of the coolest and most interesting I’ve ever seen, and the Convention Center is a gorgeous piece of architecture too. We enjoyed fish and chips by the harbor, and had fun walking into bookstores and checking out the local reads. One thing we found everywhere- The Icelandic have a fun sense of humor.

Unrtil next time ….. Aloha, Iceland!

DAPHNE’S TOP 10 THINGS NOT TO MISS IN ICELAND:

1. SELJALANDSFOSS – This is a two-for, because you also get it’s smaller sister waterfall,  just to the left of it, Gljufrabui (the hidden cavern waterfall). Be prepared to get wet, for both falls! Wear waterproof hiking boots or water shoes and a waterproof jacket. 
2. SKOGAFOSS – This thundering waterfall is an epic sight, especially if you walk right up to it! And as a bonus, definitely take the short hike to  check out nearby Kvernufoss. Another waterfall that you can walk behind, in a beautiful valley. So worth it! There is a ladder over the sheep fence, and once you cross over that, you know you are on the right path!
3. VIK & REYNISFJARA BEACH – Vik is the picturesque little town that contains this beautiful black sand beach with basalt columns. The landscape and geology will be unlike anything you’ve seen. 
4. JOKUSARLON GLACIER LAKE & DIAMOND BEACH – a beautiful glacial lake with icebergs floating around, and the run-off spills into the ocean, where the broken iceberg fragments wash up onto the black sand beach and glitter like diamonds.
5. SEYDISFJORDUR & mountain pass – If you are driving around the Ring Road, and have time for this off-shoot drive, you should definitely do it! The only way in and out of this beautiful hamlet town, is via a mountain pass that will take you only about 20 minutes, and the views are spectacular! The town itself is probably the most charming in all of Iceland, and here you can find buidlings as colorful as the rainbow road in the center of town
6. MYVATN & surrounding area – spend some hours at the Myvatn Nature Baths, with different temperature-level hot pools, sauna and restaurant. Also visit the boiling mud, and the Jon Snow cave, all within one mile radius from the nature baths. Viti crater is close too, and definitely worth a peek and some photos.
7. SNAEFELSNESS PENINSULA – Be sure to check out Arnarstapi town and the sea bird cliffs and arches there, Raudfeldsgja gully (so cool!), the black church of Budir, and of course Kirkjufell and its waterfalls.
8. BLUE LAGOON – It’s iconic. And feels wonderful. If you can do the Retreat Spa- do it.
9. GOLDEN CIRCLE – Check out geysir, Godafoss, and if you haven’t gotten enough hot springs yet- the Secret lagoon in Fludir.
10. REYKJAVIK – the Hallgrimskirkja church and convention center are two examples of awesome Icelandic architecture not to be missed. And since the church is the center attraction of Reykjavik city center, all the streets leading to it are teaming with restaurants and shops. One restaurant we loved, was Laekjarbrekka, with Skyr cheesecake that was out of this world. And this cozy, delicious eatrie was right next to an underground grunge punk museum. I love the fun of Reykjavik!
11. * BONUS – If you happen to make it to the West Fjords, find this restaurant and eat there!: Tjorhusid. It was the best fish I’ve ever had in my life. We came, on the recommendation of a friend who had been, and sung operatic aria praises about how delish it was, and we couldn’t agree more. It has been written up in Travel and Leisure magazine as the ‘best restaurant in Iceland’, and has a perfect score of 5 stars on Google. It’s waaay out of the way, and there is nothing fancy about it. There are long tables with bench seating in an old barn-setting, but the ambiance is extremely cozy and charming, and you can see the older gents in the kitchen cooking up the freshest fish ever over wrought iron skillets

TOP ICELAND TIPS IN PLANNING YOUR TRIP:

• Plan for at least a week if you want to do the Ring Road. More time, depending on how much you want to fit in.
• A Campervan gives you immense freedom and flexibility to see as much as you can, at whatever hours you choose to!
• Get the extra insurance for your vehicle (gravel, etc). You will be glad you did.
• Don’t speed! Even if you don’t think you were caught speeding, there are cameras, and we got a notice via our rental company that we had been.
• Gas stations are wonderful places to get cheaper eats! Their baked goods (like ham & cheese croissants) are baked fresh daily & very tasty! Great for in-between-meal snacks or breakfasts on the go.
• hand warmers.
• The horses in Iceland are gorgeous & everywhere!! And will eat your car. Beware of the leather if your window is down, and they approach the car to say, ‘Hello… nom nom nom’. :/
• Bring a hydroflask and fill it with hot tea or coffee at gas stations. You may not find another place to stop and get some for a while, and the weather can be biting cold at times, and you’ll be happy to have something to warm you up from inside, if you are walking to any attractions.
• You can fill up your water bottle anywhere. And I mean ANYWHERE. Any tap faucets at any establishment, and any river or waterfall. The water is the cleanest in the world. And its always ice(land) cold.
• Bring waterproof gear/jacket/pants/boots. Even though it barely rained at all in the two weeks during July that we were there, you will get wet at most of the waterfalls, especially if you like to get a close look, which is the most fun!!

DAPHNE’S ICELAND TOP PACKING LIST ‘MUST-HAVES’:

*This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you buy something through one of those links, you won’t pay a penny more, but I may earn a small commission, which helps me keep this website running. So, thank you!!!

1. No matter the season in Iceland, you will need a waterproof windbreaker jacket to keep you dry and warm. I used this one nearly every day, and absolutely loved it!! And the bonus is that it comes in all kinds of bright colors, which will give your photos a great pop of color against the sometimes grey backdrops. I loved my yellow color! Columbia is a great brand, and this particular jacket was awesome for layering. You could wear it alone, or with a fleece zip up underneath for extra warmth. It kept me entirely dry and warm the whole trip.
2. Water resistant pants were another ‘must’. Especially if you are planning on checking out the backside of some waterfalls. These were incredibly comfortable and were quick-drying… very helpful! Definitely order a size or two up, as they run small. These were on the thinner side for sure, and so I also often wore a pair of fleece leggings underneath for layering, when I needed more warmth. And the leggings can also be worn alone, as they are also water resistant. Bonus!
3. Even in the summer, I found myself needing a beanie hat to keep my ears warm when the wind was blowing. This was a fun pom pom choice and this was a practical, stylish knitted cap for shielding your face from the sun. I wore one or the other at some point every day, even in July.
4. These touchscreen gloves were the perfect thickness to keep my hands warm while walking in the colder air to some of the attractions. And the fact that you can still use your mobile devices while wearing them is a huge bonus. This particular set comes with two pairs! Use one pair as a back-up if the first gets lost or while they are drying from getting wet!
5. Hand-warmers! You might think this is a bit much, but I used every single one I brought with me. I kept them in my jacket pockets and whenever I needed a bit more ‘warming up’, I stuck my hands in my pockets and kneaded the packs which warmed my insides immediately!